The holiday season is over, a very special holiday for the first members of our immediate family finally made it to Beijing. Rebekka and Lee cleverly scheduled their trip between a crippling, flight-stopping snowstorm in Washington and another here in Beijing 2 days after they left. During their visit we had beautiful cold days, good for traversing this giant city of the East. With Rebekka and Lee , finally it was time for Philip to set foot in the Forbidden City. One of his Chinese co-workers spent a long time telling him he had to go to The Emperor's Palace Museum. Philip was very embarrassed to tell him that he had not even heard of this attraction which the senior surgeon claimed was very famous. Finally after zeroing in on a google map, it dawned on Philip that indeed they were talking about the same place!!.
By now we have a pretty good itinerary for Beijing. We climbed The Great Wall and perhaps because of the cold, the hiking was exceptionally good. After the climb we were lucky to meet Roberta and Ted for lunch at a local restaurant with a great regional cuisine. We then visited the vacation home that they are building near the Wall.
It may be winter, but we still visited the Summer Palace. It is a place that never ceases to surprise. I have now been there five times, each time entering from a different direction or walking different paths and discovering new sights. Late last fall a new subway line was opened that takes you all the way to this giant park-like palace. This time we entered from the North, climbing up to the top of the temples and stone formations before heading down the hill covered with buildings and arriving at the lake. A frozen body of water greeted us, posted everywhere with signs to stay off the ice as people ran, skated and slid over the slippery surface. Beijingers do know how to enjoy nature.
Nobody should come to Beijing without visiting the Hongqiao Pearl Market, and Rebekka did not. I have my own "pearl-lady" who I trust and who give me good prices, and as mother, so daughter, Rebekka did enjoy a little shopping there. Then we all did a little "back-alley shopping"as I led them through winding, narrow alleys to the place that seems to be a locked back door, but which magically opens to those who know. Inside you find great deals for prescription glasses, fake high quality brand watches, CD's (which probably can't be used at home) and bags. All this shopping made us hungry, but no problem: across the street "Lao (old) Beijing" beckons with home-made noodles and all kinds of Beijing treats- definitely a must when it comes to food.
Across a another street lies 'The Temple of Heaven (Tiantan)" the architectural, circular wonder of a building held together without any nails. The emperor used to come here annually to offer sacrifices to ensure rain and thus a good harvest. It is surrounded by a large and much used park. As always, the park was teeming with people , some playing cards, some dancing and several groups singing to their hearts delight. I am always struck by the joyful exuberance of Beijingers utilizing the local parks to join with friends and strangers doing what they love to do. Perhaps this is happening because people live in small apartments and the parks are where they can enjoy the great out-doors. But I always wish we westerners could be less inhibited, and just DO IT. Nobody here seems to care if you behave in a manner that if done other places, might make you a suspect of being in need of prozac. (Like walking backwards long distances, swinging your arms in circles and beating your chest, thighs etc)
There are very few churches or synagogues in Beijing. Most congregations meet in hotels or other public buildings. By co-incidence the Jewish congregation we attend, and the Protestant congregation I visit use the same space, just at different times. Rebekka accompanied me to a beautiful musical and light-filled Christmas service to ring in the holiday. Then home to a meal of Norwegian shrimp bought at the Norwegian Embassy followed by risenkrem.
Beijing duck was of course on the menu during the week, as were dumplings and vegetarian Buddhist fare. The dishes look and taste like meat and fish, but it is all tofu (or dofu as it is called here). Part of the China experience is definitely the food.
For the body there is massage. This week we went twice, once to a full body massage, and once to the famous foot massage, which is a misnomer, they actually massage your back and legs in addition to cleansing and massaging your feet. And as the saying goes "No pain, no gain." It hurts a little, but feels awfully good afterward. So thank you, no. 61 and 72. The attendants do not tell us their names, only numbers.
We also managed to get in an evening at the National Center for Performing Arts, affectionately called "The Egg" It is a beautiful building across the street from "Tiananmen Square" The egg shaped glass building rises from the moat that surrounds it, reflecting it's beautiful shape in the water. To enter the building you have to go downstairs into a large lobby and cross under the water. Apparently some locals are not happy with the feng shui of the building as it is situated slightly off the meridian that bissects the city and which all other important buildings are built on, but the acoustics are good, and we thoroughly enjoyed our percussion concert, for me the six giant xylophone orchestra was a real hit, and the gongs were fun as well.
We have been very lucky to meet a young tailor couple who do a great job as they come to your apartment to measure you for clothes, then return for a fitting before finally delivering the finished suit, shirt or qipao (Chinese dress) Lee now looks very suave in his gray suit, while Rebekka beautiful in her qipao. She also commissioned a professional-looking suit for the job-interview season she is now in. We really enjoy June and Ding.
The week went fast, what a treat to explore Beijing with Rebekka and Lee. Come April, Gabe and Jess will be here, while Max remains undecided of when he will visit. The itinerary is ready!!!
